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Thread: Cold Corn Snake?

  1. #1
    Join Date
    May 2008
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    Powell River, BC
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    Default Cold Corn Snake?

    So I just held my new cornsnake for a while, she is still quite skittish. I got her from the show last month and is my first snake. I noticed that when I picked her up, she was QUITE cold. Is this normal for her to be cold #1, and #2 for her to spend so much time in the cooler end of the tank. Seeing as I see these questions asked so much when someone is needing info, I'll just include them now.

    2 corn snakes in 15 gallon.
    1 male, 1 female (as told to me at the show)
    approx 1 yr old (both)
    Subtrate = coconut
    1 uv light 2.0
    1 75 watt heat light, hardly on as temps on warm side are consistantly 78-82
    1 under tank heat matt (can't remember name atm)
    Digital thermometer, sensor attached to glass just beside hide.
    1 large water dish.... which she spends 90% of her time under.

    Week one.... purchased on Sat....

    Female (Nova) ate 2 pinkies
    Male (Chili) got almost one down and then regurgitated it back up (I think I startled him, and I have a feeling that it was too big for him, hopper)

    Week two.......

    Nova gladely ate 2 large pinkies
    Chili, in his own jolly time, ate 2 fuzzies

    Heh! Hows that for a low down ..... Any thoughts?
    1 Dog, Standard Schnauzer, 1 Cat, 0.1 Corn Snakes, 0.1 Salmon Boa, 6.8 Guinea Pigs (Red Texel and Blue Roan Texel, Skinnies too), 1.0 Rats.... lol



  2. #2
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
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    Red Deer, Alberta
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    Default Re: Cold Corn Snake?

    First, I'd buy another cage and separate the two snakes. You don't want an accidental breeding, especially with a young female. She'll run the risk of becoming eggbound. Also, snakes don't need a friend; another snake in the cage will likely stress out the other and can cause regurge problems.

    Second, I'd lose the heat light and UV light. Corns don't need UV lighting and an undertank heater is all that they need. The heat lamp will just reduce your humidity and is of little benefit to the corn. They require belly heat, the ambient temperature is not as important.

    Third, it is normal for your corns to spend much of their time on the cool side of the cage. They will often feel cool to the touch, but I'll bet if you took their temperature you'd find that they are warm enough. If they get too cool, they will move to the warm side to heat themselves up.

    Enjoy them.

    Matt

  3. #3
    Join Date
    May 2008
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    Powell River, BC
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    Default Re: Cold Corn Snake?

    Wow! Thanks Matt. Ya I do realize that they don't need a friend. It was not my intention to purchase 2, but I just had to get the Hypo as well. Hee Hee! Just started and I'm already addicted.....lol! So I just put them in the same tank. I will do as suggested and get a separate tank tho.

    SO they don't need even the UV ? Hmmmm ... I thought they did in order to properly digest food? or absorb calcium or something of the sort. Or is that more for Lizards and such?
    1 Dog, Standard Schnauzer, 1 Cat, 0.1 Corn Snakes, 0.1 Salmon Boa, 6.8 Guinea Pigs (Red Texel and Blue Roan Texel, Skinnies too), 1.0 Rats.... lol



  4. #4
    Alberta Bred Geckos Guest

    Default Re: Cold Corn Snake?

    Only certain reptiles need UV. Snakes and such mainly need a UTH to help digest.

    As well, with communal setups, you run the risk of one snake smelling like feeders, and the other deciding to have a snack.

  5. #5
    Join Date
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    Default Re: Cold Corn Snake?

    Hmmm .... point taken. Thanks for the advice.
    1 Dog, Standard Schnauzer, 1 Cat, 0.1 Corn Snakes, 0.1 Salmon Boa, 6.8 Guinea Pigs (Red Texel and Blue Roan Texel, Skinnies too), 1.0 Rats.... lol



  6. #6
    Join Date
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    Default Re: Cold Corn Snake?

    Quote Originally Posted by Birdy75 View Post
    Wow! Thanks Matt. Ya I do realize that they don't need a friend. It was not my intention to purchase 2, but I just had to get the Hypo as well. Hee Hee! Just started and I'm already addicted.....lol! So I just put them in the same tank. I will do as suggested and get a separate tank tho.

    SO they don't need even the UV ? Hmmmm ... I thought they did in order to properly digest food? or absorb calcium or something of the sort. Or is that more for Lizards and such?
    I cannot think of a single breeder who has a UV light on their corn snake. Most keep their corns in a rack system in rubbermaids. The UTH is all that is necessary.

    Take your cage temperature from the bottom of the cage on the substrate; that'll give you your accurate cage temperature. The temperature of the cage halfway up doesn't have much of an effect on the snake (unless the temperature is extremely hot or cold).

    Matt

  7. #7
    Kioka Guest

    Default Re: Cold Corn Snake?

    Quote Originally Posted by Birdy75 View Post
    SO they don't need even the UV ? Hmmmm ... I thought they did in order to properly digest food? or absorb calcium or something of the sort. Or is that more for Lizards and such?
    Even with MOST lizards, it is more of a band-aid solution to fixing MBD rather than giving them the proper diet.

    I can name a few monitors and skinks that function fine without UV ON proper diet, and many that function fine with UV on IMPROPER diet... and MANY more without UV nor proper diet in terrible shapes.

    The only debate I heard (no experience, just reading) with UV regarding snakes are those insect-eating snakes and Diamond Pythons. But even with UV provided, these species still have problems in captivity.

    For your iguanids, chameleonids and agamids and other related reptiles, I would provide UV for.

    However most snakes obtain their D3 from the liver of their prey, the calcium from the bones and the vitamins from various parts of their prey which they digest whole.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
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    Default Re: Cold Corn Snake?

    Cornsnakes do NOT requie UV. I know breeders (Roy Stockwell to name one) who keep there entire Colubrid collections in total darkness except when they are in there working with the lights on. This a misconception that is quite often started by a petstore employee trying to sell extras that are not required or just doesn't know. Individual housing for all snakes unless they are being introduced for breeding for a multitude of reasons. Big reason in your case is too prevent the female from being bred at too young of an age & too small of a size (very unhealthy for her!). As for the coolness comments any snake you pick up should feel slightly cool to the touch. I'll echo myself on how I always go on about "bath" temps for snakes (luke warm is too hot in excess of 100F). We as Humans are just under 100F a Cornsnake should be between 70-85F depending on where its "hanging out". Therefore a snake should always be slightly cool to the touch even if it is sitting in the hottest part of its enclosure. Its common sense when you think about it If you are providing it proper temps & don't just assume this but have an accurrate way to ensure it (temp guns are great ) the snakes temp will be fine. Being coldblooded if it decides it wants to be at the cold end where it is only 75F say, guess what when you pick it up it will be 75F & you will be just under 100F therefore the snake will feel cold to you because you are 25F (or 1/3) "hotter" than it is. Make sense? Cheers Mark
    Edit - missed the Diamond Pythons comments before. I have successfully kept Diamonds for years with no UV (& bred the last 2 years as well) as have many others I know. I don't know of anyone that gives them UV actually. I think most of the issues with keeping them is directly related to those that power feed etc. or just keep them too warm overall. Diamonds can be kept considerably cooler than most all other Carpets.
    Last edited by GONESNAKEE!; 06-08-2008 at 12:43 PM.
    Mark's GONE SNAKEE! No PMs please email at gonesnakee@shaw.ca
    Working with select Colubrids (Corns, Kings, Hybrids etc.) and Australian Pythons (Carpets (X's & morphs), Aspidites etc.)
    All stock parasite free and established on F/T prey (unless stated otherwise)

  9. #9
    Join Date
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    Default Re: Cold Corn Snake?

    Quote Originally Posted by GONESNAKEE! View Post
    only 75F say, guess what when you pick it up it will be 75F & you will be just under 100F therefore the snake will feel cold to you because you are 25F (or 1/3) "hotter" than it is. Make sense? Cheers Mark
    WOW! Complete sense.........

    BTW...... what is a temp gun and where would you get one from? I know we don't have them at work. Just the digital thermos.
    1 Dog, Standard Schnauzer, 1 Cat, 0.1 Corn Snakes, 0.1 Salmon Boa, 6.8 Guinea Pigs (Red Texel and Blue Roan Texel, Skinnies too), 1.0 Rats.... lol



  10. #10
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Calgary, AB
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    Default Re: Cold Corn Snake?

    A point & click thermometer obtainable at a Reptile show or parts stores. Check with Neil T. of ERAS, Mark
    Mark's GONE SNAKEE! No PMs please email at gonesnakee@shaw.ca
    Working with select Colubrids (Corns, Kings, Hybrids etc.) and Australian Pythons (Carpets (X's & morphs), Aspidites etc.)
    All stock parasite free and established on F/T prey (unless stated otherwise)

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