View Full Version : Spiderling question

03-09-2008, 08:44 PM
I was thinking of getting me a B.Smithi to get me more used to handling tarantula's, still rather jumpy when they are lose. Now does anyone know if the B.Smithi is fast as a spiderling? I know that when its full growns its no Speedy Gonzales.

Also, I have spoken to Mads Lund before and he told me that his smallest size 1/4" was eating two week old crickets, yet I hear mention of everyone else feedings theirs 1 week. What is best?

Also, what other species would be reccomended as being more docile to handle? Would rather not have a species that is likely to bolt off my hand and try to sky dive.

Hopefully I will get me some informative replies from Ollie and Neil who have been flooding this forum with their arachnids which I am oh so jealous of.

03-09-2008, 08:56 PM
hey Cody i have a B. Smithi sling and yes they are VERY fast. they can be nice and easy to hold but in the blink of an eye they will run around your arm 3 times before you can tell what happend. I personally feed mine 2 week old crickets, if the cricket is too big the spider will not eat it but basically if it's smaller than the spider you should be fine. They are a great species and you will a lot of fun with this beautiful spider! Also another that i would recommend is the Brachypelma albopilosum. She is the most docile spider i've ever owned.

03-09-2008, 09:35 PM
Yes, B. smithi is a very good choice. You won't really find a "slow" moving Tarantula, all species are capable of very quick but short bursts of speed. I would say*almost* any species common in the hobby from Aphonopelma, Grammostola or Brachypelma would be good starters when it comes to sling, a bit slow growing but worth it:)

03-09-2008, 09:37 PM
I have to agree with Mat,my Honduran Curly Hair (Brachypelma albopilosum) is by far the most handleable T I've got.My B.smithi is ok nut she is a little skittish.
I rarely handle mine,usually it's for some one Else's benefit.

03-10-2008, 06:22 AM
As someone else mentioned all spiderlings can be fast if they want to be. Probably the best one to get as far as a beginner T would be the classic Grammostola rosea. They are and have been the most common and popular of T's for many years. There are good reasons for this: they are easy to keep, generally have a good disposition, attractive in an understated way and are readily available.
My B. smithi, while attractive, is very skittish and flicks hairs at the slightest provocation. I have never handled him/her for this reason.
I've found that Avicularia veriscolor, Avicularia avicularia and Chromatopelma cyaneopubescens (green bottle blue) are attractive, easy to maintain and handle.
Having said that, I rarely handle my T's usually only to show someone to help overcome their fears.


03-10-2008, 10:08 AM
Avicularia veriscolor, Avicularia avicularia and Chromatopelma cyaneopubescens (green bottle blue) are attractive, easy to maintain and handle.

I was looking at the Avicularia avicularia, but I dont think I like the whole projectile feces defence system.

So far I am thinking the B.Smithi and/or B.Albopilosum will be in my order, still trying to debate if I want to get one of the other ones Ollie mentioned. I dont see G.Rosea on tarantulacanada's price list, so I might have to wait until the show to pick up one of those. Which reminds me about the show and makes me fear the money loss, but makes me want it to arrive sooner so I can get me more critters!

03-10-2008, 10:33 AM

I have never had one of the Avicularias shoot any poop at me.

David Avery probably has G. rosea he could bring to the show.



03-10-2008, 10:48 AM
Yeah I checked out his site for one a little while ago, he is who I got my(which is now Neil T's) Holothele incei from.

03-14-2008, 09:10 AM
Allright, so I am putting in the order for these species from TarantulaCanada, they have been incredibly helpful information wise aswell.

Avicularia "avicularia"
Brachypelma albopilosum
Brachypelma smithi

03-14-2008, 01:25 PM
I would suggest you wait till the show.The same T's will all be there for pretty much the same price but you wont have to pay $15 for an insulated box and $45 for shipping.But if you do put in an order let me know first ,they owe me a T.

03-14-2008, 05:09 PM
I already put the order in, and it was $40 for shipping to Redwater and $10 for the insulated box. I got too impatient and wanted my T's as soon as possible. Chances are I will pick up more at the show anyways.

03-17-2008, 03:31 PM
Cody when you set up their new homes I suggest using Peat instead of potting soil.I was out of peat so I used potting soil for the ones I just got and within a week I had mold growing in a bunch of the containers,peat seems to be more mold resistant.

03-17-2008, 03:34 PM
Allright, so when I get them, I should move them to other cages? Instead of keeping them in the one they came in?

Then again I suppose its easier to just set up a new pill bottle instead of moving them to something else and cleaning it then putting them back.

03-17-2008, 03:41 PM
They will come in a pill bottle but wrapped in a piece of paper towel. If you just have an extra pill bottle put the paper & spider in it without opening it,put peat in the bottle then gently open the paper and shoo the little guy in.I had a couple make a run for it and Ollie suggested doing the transfer in the tub (plug in)to help contain them.My B.smithy was super tiny so yours probably will be too so they will probably be good in the bottles they come in.

03-17-2008, 04:08 PM
Thanks Neil, I already read about Ollie doing it in the bathtub, so I planned to do the same, but I might tape up some holes along my sliding doors to prevent any possible escapes. Will also tape up my faucet, just incase.

How often are you misting your spiderlings? and are you using a spray bottle? or just putting in a drop of water or two?

03-17-2008, 04:33 PM
I already read about Ollie doing it in the bathtub,

Hey, hey!! Where you reading this stuff?:D

Just dribble a couple of drops in to the vial opposite of where the spiderling is. How often depends on your house, how many ventilation holes etc. You'll be able to gauge it pretty quick. Basically you want the substrate moist/damp but not soaking wet.